Day 7, Finland, Helsinki

A word about the Glo Hotel: I cannot recommend it more highly, not only is it one of the best in Helsinki it is one of the best I have stayed in anywhere in the world. It "Glows" in luxury, location and service.

Our last day in Helsinki we spent shopping, and you could also use this time for museums markets or a bus tour. Having seen all the essentials in the first day in Helsinki, you are now at your leisure. Stockmann department store is the biggest department store in Scandinavia, and although not my favorite, it is worth a look. Also along the same road is H&M, and other familiar stores. Souvenir shops you will find on the Senate Square. By now you would have been up and down the shopping streets, but here is a walking itinerary I found on the net that works well:

Turn right at the hotel Glo door, walk through Esplanade Park to the Market Place, past the Presidential Palace to the Russian Church (Uspenski), turn back walk Aleksanterinkatu to the Alexander's statue and Cathedral (Suurkirkko) and further back to the hotel.Can be done in 1 hour, and you will see all the shopping areas, and a lot of the main sights. As for museums, try the Ateneum Art Museum (2 hours) Finnish National Museum (2-3 hours) or the Cable Factory museums 2-3 hours depending on your taste. Perhaps you prefer markets, and there are a few in the city:Hietalahti Market, Hakaniemi Market (Hietsun Kirppis) or Valtteri Market. If you didn't get a chance to just wander around I always leave the last day to doing just that. Go back to places you would like to revisit, or shops you passed in a hurry. Try a cafe or two, and perhaps the Kynsilaukka Restaurant dedicated to garlic.

Then it is a late flight out or an early evening in to prepare for a morning departure.

Photo by Tomorrow Bystander

Day 6, Finland, Inari & Ivalo

There is plenty to do in Inari, although at first glance it appears to be in the middle of no where, look at a few of the tourist sites for Inari and you will find plenty of sports, Lapland activities, visits to Reindeer farms, felt making businesses and an artists trail that you can follow by yourself around to various local artists studios. However Inari may be most famous for the Sami Siida Museum so that is what we went to see. The Truth is I preferred the more intimate Sami Museum in Kirona, Sweden, but this one is on a level with international museums. It is full of technical, 3D, arty displays, with a sound track of a babbling brook, and then Sami ritual singing in the background. There is also an impressive display of Sami art. You can spend about an hour here, and there is also a cafe.


After this we took the bus back to Ivalo, where we waited for the flight to Helsinki. While in Ivalo we eat in the Hotel Kultahippu, highly recommended, intimate, dark wood, pub/restaurant. Then the biggest tip I can give you for Ivalo: If you are coming from the Kultahippu Hotel, in the direction of the main road, you will see on your right a sign for Playmobile, outside a shop that sells souvenirs, toys and other odds and ends. This is a cheap shop for souvenirs,but the gems are all in the basement. Once in the shop, you will see some stairs going down, there you will find a jumble sale of items, ranging from clothes to souvenirs. The prices here are much lower than upstairs, it really is a bargain basement. So rummage around, you are sure to find something. We saw reindeer antlers for 1 Euro, compared to about 15E in other places.

There is no bus service from Ivalo to the Ivalo airport so it is necessary to take a taxi - 17km, cost approximately 17 Euro).We flew Finair at 18:25 (170.45Euro), and arrived in Helsinki at 19:55. From the Helsinki Vantaa airport we took a bus to the centre(3.5 Euro), and the Hotel Glo is walking distance from the central bus terminal.

Day 5, Finland, Inari

In Lapland, weather it is Norway, Sweden or Finland, you can always find standard snow activities. These include: skiing, cross country skiing, Husky dog sledding, reindeer farm activities, snow mobiles and the less popular, horse riding and ice fishing. Well, we had done most of these activities on previous trips so we went for the ice fishing. Next to the Inari Hotel there is the tourist info which can give advise and contacts, and next to that is the office of "Inari Lake & Snow". It is a family run business, they also run the camping ground down the road. For 155 Euro per person, we were kitted out in snow gear, and went on a 4 hour excursion, riding snow mobiles over the ice covered lake. Our guide took us to two of the local sites, the wooden Pielpajärvi wilderness church and the Island Ukko which was once a Sami burial site. You get to climb the hill on the island, which is high, and open to the elements, especially the wind, but it gives you breathtaking views. After that we stopped in the middle of the lake and tried our hand at ice fishing. Only our guide caught anything. Then he took us to a hut on another island where he lite a fire in the centre and we had a light meal, including cooking the fish over the open fire. We don't eat meat, so feel free to tell them your dietary preferences.

Once back in town we looked around the souvenir shops. Make sure you shop around as although there are only about three shops, the prices vary. We found that the biggest souvenir shop had the best deals.

Over dinner that evening we heard about the Inari International Indigenous Peoples Film festival, and more importantly the after party that would be held in the Inari Hotel! The film festival is worth seeing not only to experience watching films in the outdoor ice theatre , and for seeing unusual films by various indigenous people from around the world, but more importantly, it gives you the chance to get to know these special people in the Inari Hotel pub afterwards. The place gets packed, and there are performances by Sami musicians, really an unforgettable evening.

Photo from Luontoon

Day 4, From Rovaniemi to Inari

We had a bus to catch to Inari in the North scheduled for 11:45, so the plan was to see the museum in town - Arktikum - It focuses on Arctic areas and Finnish Lapland’s history and modern day life, as well as a multimedia show about the Northern Lights, exhibitions on the Sami culture and the wild life in the area. Open Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00. Cost 12Euro for an adult. It is clearly marked on the city map that the hotel reception supplies, and is within walking distance. However, we got up slowly and instead walked up and down the pedestrian street, visited the most Northerly McDonald's, and the town mall where the Lordi restaurant is. If you remember they are a rock band that won the Eurovision a few years back, and they all dress up like some kind of fantasy monster like creatures. The restaurant is decorated accordingly. Opposite the restaurant is a supermarket, and an Aloco - the outlet where you can buy alcohol in Finland. So we stocked up and then went back to the hotel and caught a taxi to the central bus station. This I admit is a flaw in my planning - the bus to Inari leaves from the central bus station which is a walkable distance but not with luggage, so this adds extra cost - Taxi fare 10Euro.
The bus left promptly at 11:45. It is a very comfortable bus with a toilet, and one are at the back with a table and 4 chairs around it, so try and catch this space for your trip. The ride to Inari takes 5 hours, it costs 93Euro per person one way, and makes several stops. There are about 3 stops just for a cigarette and to use the toilet, and then there is a slightly longer stop(30 min) in Ivalo.
Ivalo is one of the options for staying in the North, but once I had seen it I was glad we chose Inari. Ivalo, although small, is about 3 times the size of Inari, which is very small, and the main road is very wide and long, so getting around on foot would have been more challenging. Although if your purpose is just to have a place to lay your head and then go out every day on excursions, Ivalo would be fine. There is also the cute Hotel Kultahippu which has a warm wood paneled, lobby, which features a bar, slot machines and a fireplace.
The bus delivers the post/mail to all the small villages along the way, and the bus trip gives you the opportunity to see the wide open spaces of Finland, with trees, trees, more trees and ice covered lakes and rivers. Extremely beautiful.
We arrived in Inari. Basically a one street village, where everyone is friendly, and they all know each other. The bus drops you off right outside your hotel, whether you stay at the Inari Hotel of the Kultahovi, where we stayed. There is also a camping ground with cabins a little out of town, and a relatively new Bed and Breakfast, Villa Lanca, opposite the Inari Hotel. How to choose where to stay: Inari Hotel is in the "centre" of town, and has an active bar and pub scene on weekends. The B&B is also central, clean and new, but quieter and more personal. The pro of camping is the price, the con is the distance from town, although they offer all the trips and excursions. The Kultahovi, my choice and favorite: small enough to be intimate, a 5 minute walk from the "centre", and if you get a room like ours you will be very satisfied. Ask for a room in the new wing - the river hotel I think they call it, with a sauna in your bathroom and a sliding door leading on to your own porch, which faces the river and forest. They too provide all the trips and excursions, as well as having a classy restaurant, and a small library. There is also a computer you can use paying by the time you use.

Finland, Day 3

You can leave Helsinki on a SAS flight at 12:00 to Rovaniemi and arrive at 13:30. Now as I have only planned one day in Rovaniemi, maximize your time by going directly to the Santa Village by taxi (+/- 12 Euro) which is only 2km from the airport, instead of going all the way into town and then out again to Santa. Once in the Santa village you can leave your luggage at the reception, and also pick up a map of the village there. Entrance is free. An hour is enough time in the village if you are not with kids, and if it is not Christmas time. There are many souvenir shops, a few restaurants, and the attractions which are a snow park, meeting Santa( free, but no self-taken photos, photos sold starting at 30 Euro), send a letter "from"Santa to your kids (6Euro) and a museum. But of course the place is magical just to walk around, as the Christmas carols are softly played over head. Avoid the high seasons here. We were told that around Christmas you can wait 2 hours in line for Santa, when we just went straight in. You can also buy a certificate to signify that you have crossed the Arctic circle. The certificate is 12 Euro from the restaurant and 6Euro from the reception. Then it is on to Roveniemi by bus(2.90Euro). Tell the bus driver the name of your hotel and he will indicate where to get off. Stay at the City Hotel. It is warm, welcoming, reasonably priced and in the middle of town.
Take a walk up the pedestrian street, or just get some rest until the evening. Then you can do one of the evening activities on offer, like sledding, searching for the Northern Lights, or what we did, have a ski lesson.
We used the ski school at the nearby Ounasvaara Ski slops.

Finland, Day 2, part 2

On arriving back in Market square you can begin a walk around the city taking in the major sites. Take a map with all of the sites marked. As you exit the Old Market on your right you will see the red-brick Uspenski Cathedral on to top of a slight hill. Walk to it, up the hill and have a look around. The church has an exquisite interior and is used by Orthodox Christian worshipers. Then down again. At the base of that hill you will see the Garlic restaurant. So keep it in mind if you are looking for an interesting place to eat at later. Continue straight up the rather narrow street opposite the restaurant, and this will bring you to Senate Square at the corner of Unioninkatu and Aleksanterinkatu streets. I maybe wrong but this is the greatest concentration of souvenir shops you will find in Helsinki, so if you have to have a mug, troll, or magnet this is the place to buy it. On the square is also the tourist info, library, Helsinki Lutheran Cathedral, the Government Palace, the main building of the University of Helsinki and a shop for sauna paraphernalia. The oldest stone building in Helsinki is the Sederholm House located on the southeast corner of the square. The main building of the City Museum can be found on the Sofiankatu museum street. Standing centre is the statue of Tsar Alexander II of Russia. Take a run up the steps of the Cathedral - great photo op - and poke around in this far let ornate Cathedral. The entrance is on the left hand side of the building, not the side where the steps are. Open Mon-Sun 9-18, during summer 9-24. Leave from the same side entrance you used to go in and go straight down the steps in front of you, not the ones on the square. Now you are walking to the shopping area of the city, and Alexander Street. On this street you can catch a 3T tram to Kauppakorkeakoulut. Get off here and follow the sign to the Rock Church or Temppeliaukio Church at Lutherinkatu 3. This unusual church is built into the granite rock that Helsinki is built on. There is also a touristy shop just by the entrance. Open basically from 10am to 8pm and closed on Tuesdays in winter between 12:45-14:15. Check out the site for the complicated open hours. Now return on 3T ending up back on the Esplanade and have a casual stroll down this attractive street. Round off your day with one of the restaurants in the area. You may enjoy the tractor decorated Zetor, or the Iguana, for a good Pizza. The Iguana also has a bar, and a sauna for rent.

Photo by Jenn

Finland, Day 2, part 1

The busiest day, as I want to fit in all the "must sees" so that I am sure we don't miss anything. Make your way to the Market Square, where the ferry leaves for the Suomenlinna Maritime Fortress The ferry-boats leave from between 6am and 2.20am. at a rate of 1 or 2 per hour. There is an additional service boat from Katajanokka on weekdays between 7.25am and 3.25pm. Ferry-boats are part of Helsinki City Transportation system. The normal City Transport tickets are valid on the ferry-boat, so you can use the same ticket you used to get from the airport to town the previous day.Suomenlinna, Viapori-Sveaborg fortress is one of the biggest sea fortresses in the world, unless you are set on knowing every detail and seeing every nook and cranny of the place, I would say it is enough to take a walk from one end of the island to the other. That way you see all the major sites. Don't skip on the submarine, which is a little off the main path and may be open. Because I planned to see this first thing in the morning some of the indoor sites on the island are closed, but the main museum is open. Finish off your visit with coffee in the quaint coffee house near the ferry stop. There are guided walks but they are not really necessary.

Once back in Market Square, as you step off the ferry, look to your left and you will see the Old Food Hall-Hakaniemen kauppahalli. Take a slow stroll around the interesting and flavorsome stalls.

don't miss the chocolate stall, and their delicious mint chocolate- buy by the chunk!

Finland in a winter week - Day 1.

This trip tries to see more than just Helsinki, and to see the incredible Lapland.

Arrive in Helsinki when you exit the International terminal you will see the bus stops. Go to platform 1B and take bus #615. There are other ways to get to town but this is the cheapest and just as easy and quick as the other ways. It takes 30-40 minutes and goes every 20 minutes. You can buy a one way ticket from the driver for 3.40 Euro and this will last you 80 minutes, which means that when you arrive in town you can take a connecting tram/bus/tube using the same ticket. Or you can buy a regional ticket which costs 6 Euro but lasts 24 hours and is good for all the city transport including the ferry to Suomenlinna. This is preferable to the Helsinki card unless you intend to go to a lot of museums.

Once in the city you can find your hotel easily as the bus puts you at the central train station where there are buses and trams to other parts of the city. The Scandic, Holiday Inn, Palace, Glo, Kamp and others are central. We stayed at the Palace but were not too impressed, but later stayed at the Glo and loved it, so I would go straight to the Glo which is walking distance from the station. Having arrived late in the evening we only had time to go out for dinner at the unusual Zetor restaurant which is decorated with tractors and farm paraphernalia. They also have a blackjack table and a dance floor with DJ. Interesting menu and interesting decor. And then to bed.