Stockholm, boat trip, day 7

Our last day was devoted to a boat trip and just hanging around, shopping and doing any last things we felt we had missed or wanted to return to. There are many companies which provide boat trips of various lengths, most of them leave from opposite the Grand Hotel ( go have a peek inside, it is listed in the book "1000 things to do before you die") boats depart from Strömkajen and Strandvägen in the centre of town. Although all guide books and sites rave about the archipelago and say you have to go on an extended boat trip, we chose the shorter version, firstly because of the weather and season, and secondly because from the boat it all seemed like much of a muchness.
The tickets can be booked on the spot. You may choose to take the day and go on the hour long journey run by Waxholmsbolaget to an island like Vaxholm, where you can get off and wander around. Alternatively there are boats that allow you to "island hop", or a boat with the price of a meal included. Some trips are also free or discounted with a Stockholm card. We were on a one hour Winter Boat Tour that did not stop along the way, but which provided reindeer skins to cover ourselves with and had a kiosk that sold beer, soup, a little food and Glogg - hot muled wine - delicious! There was also a running commentary, telling of the islands and landmarks we passed along the way. Cost:180SEK.
In the evening we decided to go to the Casino Cosmopolitan. A little snooty but most casinos outside on America are. A good laugh, and pleasant way to end the trip. In the next blog I will summarize with a blow by blow itinerary and list of costs, and tips.

Stockholm, city Hall, Old Town, Shopping, Day 6

CITY HALL
The only way to visit City Hall is by taking part in a guided tour. The tour ( 45 minutes) goes through the official part of the City Hall. Guided tours are available daily in Swedish and English at 10:00am and 12:00 noon for individuals with no advance reservation (max 9 participants Guided tours 14 - 31 January (subject to changes) Check out the web site as their times are random and the tours in various languages. The tour is worthwhile as the interior is stunning. This is where the Nobel Prize ceremony takes place.City Hall is entered from Stadshusshopen (the City Hall Gift Shop).60SEK. It can be reached by bus: 3, 62 or by underground: T-centralen, Rådhuset.
GAMLA STAN
The most beautiful part of Stockholm for me is the Old Town - Gamla Stan. From the train station walk towards the Sheraton and cross the bridge opposite the hotel. You will find your self walking towards the Palace and the Old town. It is a place to just amble around in, although it is always nice to have some landmarks you are aiming for. So if you start by the Palace where you entered the Old Town and then go on to Storkyrkan, Stockholm's cathedral, which you can enter and see the wooden statue of St. George killing the dragon. Then continue on to Stortorget, an open square where a massacre took place, and on the same square you can see the Nobel Prize Museum(free with Stockholm card). Down one of the nearby allies is a costume shop with beautiful period costumes, the Old Town also has it's share of good leather shops, toys and of course tourist shops. Then follow Kopmangatan down to Osterlangatan, where you will see in Kopmantorget a bronze statue of St. George. Don't miss Martin Trotzig ally. A narrow ally with a width of 35 inches in places. There are plenty of quaint coffee places and some good Italian restaurants. Also a Medieval restaurant witch can be visited in the evening for lots of atmosphere and beer. You can wander around the Old Town for hours. There is also the changing of the guard outside the Palace at 11:00 every day.
SHOPPING
Depending on where you come from and what is available in your country you may or may not find shopping in Stockholm interesting. However whether you are out to buy or just window shopping the pedestrian shopping street, Drottninggatan, which runs from Riksbron Bridge (around the corner from the Sheraton), in Norrmalm to Observatorielunden in Vasastaden is a pleasant experience. Once you reach the end you can keep going and find the regular shops that Stockholm locals use, as well as large department stores like Ahlens, which also has a spa on the top floor where you can get pamper.
EVENING ENTERTAINMENT
Still got energy?
Try skating on the outdoor ice rink in Kungstradgarden. Skating is free, just renting the skates costs 30KR. Get the metro to Kungstradgarden stop, it is a short walk from the water front.

Sweden, Stockholm, Day 5

First of all get a Stockholm card. They can be picked up from the Tourist centre. For our purposes we got the 24 hour card and an Internet deal, because we paid for it on line, of 48 hours for the price of 24. 24hours costs 375SEK, and according to my calculations it pays for itself if you do the things we did in the day I am about to describe.
Take a ferry from Nybroplan to the island of Djurgarden. It leaves every 20 minutes and takes about 8 minutes. Regular price 35SEK, Stockholm card free. Alternatively you can get bus 47 or44 from the central bus station, it is also possible to walk.
On the island you have a myriad of sites including Junibacken, Vasa Museum, Skansen and Grona Lund.
SCANSEN
Scansen is an enormous park consisting of houses from different areas in Sweden that have been brought here. There are also cafes and a zoo with some unusual animals and an aquarium. Take your time as it is extremely large. The best thing about it is that in most of the houses the staff is dressed up in period costume and talk to you as if you have just entered their homes. This includes a chemist, and post office. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Cost 65SEK and free for Stockholm card, well worth it.
VASA MUSEUM
From there it is a pleasant walk to the Vasa Museum, not to be missed, as it is one of a kind. A Viking battle ship in its entirety, the museum itself is well set out. Cost 95 SEK free for Stockholm card.
From here we walked back to the city stopping at several museums along the way. There are a lot of museums in Stockholm. So because we had the card we didn't think twice about just popping in to have a look.
THE FOOD HALLS
By now we were hungry, although we had eaten at one of the Scansen cafes.
Take the metro (also free with your card) to the Hotorget stop. This is the Haymarket. A market selling fruit and veg during the week and a flee market on the weekends. But the attractions around it make it worth a visit. To the South a huge film complex - Filmstaden Sergel and the Hotorgshallen indoor food markets, and to the West is the PUB department store, North is the Kungshallen food hall. After feasting your eyes, and having a sit down, continue to another culinary delight. You can either follow a map and walk or take the metro red line to Ostermalmstorg and take the Ostermalmstorg/Nybrogatan exit. You will find yourself outside another even better food hall the Ostermalmshallen. Don't miss this as it is not only great to see, smell and taste, but mostly full of locals. On your walk from food hall to food hall of course you also pass some good shopping areas.
Back to the hotel and a good night's sleep.

Kiruna to Stockholm, Day 4

FINAL ACTIVITY IN KIRUNA
On our last day in Kiruna we planned to go on a cross country ski, through the Camp Ripan. Camp Ripan has accommodation and activity services, if you choose to stay there the service is basic although the staff are very helpful, and it is at least a 10 minute walk - walking fast - to the town centre. The ski trip was for 2 hours (495SEK) including guide and coffee and cake break. At the last minute we decided not to ski and so they offered us all kinds of alternatives. The guide was a lovely Sami girl, who instead took us to a Sami museum which was closed and had it especially opened for us. There she spent the time telling us about her culture, and specifically about her own life as a Sami. Camp Ripan can be highly recommended for it's service.
At 16:00 we flew SAS for 420SEK each to Stockholm's Arlanda airport. You can definitely find cheaper tickets. This was just the price for the day and time we wanted, but check out the prices and then decide which day to fly on.
GETTING FROM AIRPORT TO STOCKHOLM
The Arlanda express runs every 20 minutes from the airport to the central station for 380SEK return. The Flyggbussarna goes every 10 minutes for 175SEK return to the train station. A taxi would cost about 400SEK.
STOCKHOLM HOTEL
We stayed at the Sheraton. The plus points for this hotel: luxury, excellent location, and if you travel a lot you might want to join their club and collect points to us for free stays in the future. The minus is simply the price. We were staying 4 nights so we got one free, otherwise the price was 1400SEK a night. Whether you stay there or at a different hotel, definitely, without question stay around the train station. It is just across the bridge from the Old Town, and a road away from the main shopping drag. It is also not a slummy area like some train station areas in other cities. In the evening, having just arrived, we went for a walk, dinner and a good nights sleep.

Sweden, Kiruna, Ice Hotel, Day 3

We took bus 501 from the main bus terminal, which is opposite the city hall, to Jukkasjarvi, where the Ice Hotel is, 17km away. The buses only operate on weekdays. You can also reach the Ice Hotel directly from the Kiruna airport which is 12km. The Ice Hotel is open to visitors in the Winter from 10am to 6pm, after that it is just for those staying over night. You can go in to the hotel rooms, chapel, bar and basically look around the entire structure for 295SEK, as well as the souvenir shop of course. We decided not to sleep there because firstly the bath rooms are in another permanent building, and we didn't fancy getting wrapped up to go out to the bathroom each time. Plus the inconvenience of having to be our of your room during the day hours so that people can come a look around. And of course because we would rather be warm! But I can understand someone wanting the experience of actually sleeping there.
The village where it is located is very basic, and a long bus ride from anywhere if you wanted to do something other than be in the ice hotel, but they do provide activities, like Husky, snowmobile etc. We walked into the town, at least 15 minutes, in order to see the famous Sami church there. It really is beautiful and if you are at the Ice Hotel don't miss the church. Next to the church is a reindeer farm or Sami centre which was closed for lunch when we where there but looked interesting. On the walk to the church which is a straight line from the Ice Hotel, we came to a cozy quaint restaurant, which I think is also a hotel. It sits on the edge of a the river Torne, and serves hot meals and coffee. We had salmon soup for the first time. the bus drive to the Ice Hotel is also interesting as you get to see normal people's houses. The bus also passes the Esrange base, which is also a tourist attraction.
In the evening we took a snowmobile safari with Camp Alta to search for the northern lights 375SEK each two people sharing a snowmobile. It goes about 20kms and takes 3.5 hours, it also includes stopping in the middle of nowhere and the guide builds a camp fire and makes coffee. Wonderful experience, and we saw the lights!!

Sweden, Kiruna, Day 2

Kiruna is built on top of the world's largest iron mine. The mine is slowly caving in and there are plans underway to move the entire town to another location. So you are really seeing something here that won't be here in the next twenty years(moving starts 2013). There are many activities to do in and around Kiruna, and you can choose what suites you, but I will tell you what we did.
TOUR OF MINE
A bus leaves from the tourist office, which is in the parking lot outside the Scandic Hotel, just up the road towards the town. It takes you up into the mountains to an exibition mine, and 540 meters underground. The guide takes you through the mine, multimedia show, exihbition and museum. Including coffee and cookies! Daily departures:9am, 3pm, and takes 3 hours. You can book through the tourist office. 280SEK each
SNOW FESTIVAL
The walk up the hill through a park to the main street of the town takes you through an open area where the snow festival is held once a year in the last week of January. If you are going see if your trip coincides with this. They bring huge blocks of hard snow into the park and then teams of artists carve shapes and images into the ice. There is also a reindeer race down the main street and the town is full of Sami people in traditional costume selling their wares. There are also other activities over that week.The town itself in quaint, and has some warm cozy coffee houses, try Safari Cafe where the locals go. When we were there the shoe shop on the main street was having a sale and the boots were going for about $8 a pair!
HORSE RIDING IN SEARCH OF THE NORTHERN LIGHTS
Now you could go on Husky rides, reindeer tours, snowmobile rides, but we chose horses. You are picked up from the hotel driven to the farm (which by the way also rents horse smelly very rural rooms). Then you help prepare the horses, suit up and go riding through total silence of a hundred year old forest. Hopefully you see the northern lights. On returning you have dinner - delicious in the Luvvo - around a very smokey fire and the guide - who is Sami - tells you about their life. Very friendly, casual and helpful. You don't feel like they are watching the clock. Highly recommended. 4 hours - 16:00-20:00. 425SEK each.
On this day the time in between activities is spent walking around town, relaxing and eating. We went for a long walk after we returned from the horses, in the hope of seeing the lights.

Sweden day 1 - 23/01/08

FLIGHT
Flight to Sweden booked directly on KLM site, with a short stop in Frankfurt.
Arrived in Stockholm's Arlanda airport and immediately continued on to Kiruna.
Kiruna Flight on Norwegian airline 880 SEK each return from terminal 4 flight takes 1 1/2 hours. Can also check out SAS, and Barents airlink which has flights from Lulea. It is Sweden's most Northerly airport.
TAXI
The taxi's wait out side, and you can share with other travelers. You can book taxi 24 hours a day at +46(0)980-120 20 at around 350/400SEK (30Euro) taxi ($44) or when you arrive there is a phone on the wall and you can call for one, which then takes about 20 minutes. If you fly in the high season there is an airport bus which is much cheaper.
HOTEL
Stay at the Ralleran Hotel. (There is also a Scandic, but don't be tempted by the net saying it is closer to town. It is about 3 minutes closer and had NO character. It does have a lively pub, but that is something you want to visit, not sleep on to of. There are other smaller but descent places to stay, but the Ralleran combines all the best - location, excellent food, service, cleanliness, room size and style, sauna, hot tub internet, service and wonderful laid back friendly staff. It does also have a unique feature - in the garden there are one or two Luvvos(made out like the Sami people's traditional homes, but with all the mod cons, and heating) it also has a glass top so you can lie in bed and look up to the northern lights. The Luvvo has a super technical shower, including in-shower-radio, and some of the rooms in the main building have a jacuzzi. I was apprehensive when we went, so I booked one night in the Luvvo and 2 nights inside the hotel. But it was fantastic and so don't hesitate to make your whole stay there if you like. Total for 2 nights in hotel, and 1 night in Luvvo, including great breakfast -4585SEK ($717)

SWEDEN

One week in Sweden in the winter (January/Febuary).It is based on two travellers, some where between budget and splurging. This is a trip for those who like to move around alot, do and see a lot, and see the knowen sights as well as the road less traveled. In other words to get a taste of various areas around the country. Costs have been given for 2008 and the whole trip was booked and planned online. This itinery has been tried and tested.

**TIP** Booking flights online

Many of the rules applying to booking hotels also apply to flights.
First choose your destination. Shop around. There are many flight sites.

• Make sure you check the national airline of the country you are departing from and the one you are going to.
• Some sites quote the prices before tax, so look for the small print.
• You can save a lot of money if you are willing to have a lay over of a few hours in the airline's home airport.
• Note whether the time of arrival at your destination is not the next day. That can be a nasty surprise.
• If you fly regularly it can pay to join a frequent flier club sothat you get points that can be used for discounts, and free flights (it doesn't hapen often, as you really have to fly alot). If you do join one check out it's partners, so that you can get points from hotels, and other airlines as well.
• There are sites that check other sites for you. Rather do it yourself.
• Prices change, so start looking as far ahead as possible and check back regularly. The earlier you book the cheaper.
• Book off season.
• If you are flexable fly to a city nearwhere you want to go, if it is cheaper. YOu will also get to see another city. Capital cities are of course cheaper to fly to.
• Kayak have a helpful chart called "Chart view" which shows the whole month and which periods are cheaper or more expencive for your flight.

So here are some of my favorite sites in an example of price comparing:

There are many other sites, just search and search, if flying from UK try ryanair, don't forget to check the airline sites, and charter flights.

A return flight from Tel Aviv to Hamburg.

http://www.kayak.com/ Lufthansa $442

http://www.travelocity.com/ Lufthansa $446, El AL$ 476

http://www.czechairlines.com/en/portal/homepage/il_homepage.htm $422 not exact dates

http://www.edreams.com/edreams/english/ $876 Turkish air (for some destinations edream are good. The outward and inward flight prices are quoted seperately)

http://www.expedia.com/daily/home/default.asp?rfrr=-1065 Lufthansa $448

http://www.lufthansa.com/online/portal/lh/us/homepage?l=en&nodeid=1678690&cid=1000390 $585

**TIP** Hotel Booking

First look around on any site with hotels in the city you are looking for. Once you have narrowed it down to a few hotels, then look for those hotel's web sites. Always start with the Hotel's actual site. Find the price they offer - the cheapest price they can offer is called a Rack Price. Then you can go on to look at other hotel booking sites, in order to compare prices.
Remember:

• If one site says there are no rooms available, other sites could still have rooms.
• The sites with "live chat" help are very useful.
• Compare apples to apples -
• Make sure you are comparing prices in the same currency.
• Does it include breakfast.
• What are the rules for cancelation.
• How close is the hotel to the railway/bus station, and the sites.

To give you a few names of booking sites, and also illustrate how much the prices on the net can vary, have a look at this example, for booking 2 nights in a double room in Helsinki:
Hotel Linna 14/01/09 - 16/01/09 Double
Booking.com 340 Euro
Hoteltravel.com 286 Euro
Linna Hotel 340 Euro
Agoda.com 150 Euro

Needless to say my favorite site is Agoda. Apart from having excellent prices, they also credit you a few Dollars for your next booking, and have livechat help. Notice though, that they can quote the hotel in any currency you choose, but the final bill can then be quoted in Dollars.

Bon voyage!

If you want to stuff as much as possible into a week of travel - in other words - if you work and/or have kids and other commitments but still have travel goals and an adventurous nature - this blog is for you.

If you would rather see the world than lie on a beach - this blog is for you.
If you can't stand running with the pack on organized tours, but still want the trip to go like clock-work - this blog is for you.

If you have never found a friendly travel agent who actually has time and patience to find you that perfect price or slightly off-the-beaten-track location - then watch this space!
I'll help you plan your trip, and give you tips about booking everything yourself. I'll share with you a few of my adventures, and the exciting and interesting things you can still do, even when on a budget of time and money.

You will be able to also download full itineries of trips to Norway, Sweden, Germany, Israel, England and more.

I will even correspond with you and help plan your trip.

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